Altitude: 5300m
Atmospheric Pressure: 558mbar
Trek: 5km / 2Hrs
We woke up to the sound of the heli at 7am, coming to pick up Chimu and take him on his way
home.
The sun was a little late coming out, and the tent was still
covered by frozen condensation, as every morning. If you touch anything, you
get covered in snow, and when the sun warms up the tent, it starts to rain.
That’s why everybody has developed the routine of getting the sleeping bag out
to dry before they go for breakfast.
It felt bizarre this morning, the atmosphere was electric.
Rumors of other people leaving, group separation and mainly
start date for the next rotation.
After breakfast, Russell gathered us all outside in the sun.
His first point was that the weather was still very windy,
up at Camp 2 and Camp3. This meant that it would take the sherpas at least a further
2 days to fix the “double” ropes on the Lhotsee face and dig platforms for the
tents at Camp 3. There’s been very little snow, so the sherpas will have to cut
the platforms in hard, blue ice. Sounds like very hard work.
Russell also pointed out that the slope there is so steep that
any objects dropped can become lethal and injure people lower down. He asked us
to be aware of who and what was above us as well as asking us to have nothing
strapped to the outside of our packs. Stories of oxygen bottles, water bottles,
ice axes plummeting down the slope were mentioned.
Then he moved on to say that the icefall doctors couldn’t
think of a better route through the ice fall, despite Russell going to see them
3 times in one day, what we had was the best they could do. Russell said the 3
big commercial companies at Base Cap thought about terminating the expeditions
and going home due to the risk of seracs falling on the route, but decided
against it. Instead, it’s down to us to make the decision and review the risk.
It will take us 40mins to cross the high risk area, with the brief that if
anything was to come down, to hide behind the house size ice blocks. Also, we
will need to keep moving through that area, never stop………. This should be fun!!
Lucky we only have to do this twice!!
Finally, groups and timing for the next rotation were
announced / discussed. The soldiers are sticking together, with their 2
cameramen and Mark, leaving space for a couple of “civies”. Sergey and I will
be joining them, although for this rotation, our group will go last, which
Sergey is not best pleased about. I think it’s best to have a tentmate you get
on with, especially for the next rotation which will be 5 nights in a tent.
So, we’ll be leaving on the 28th at 2am to cross the icefall, directly for Camp 2 at
6400m.
- 29th, rest day at
Camp 2
- 30th, short walk
above Camp 2
- 1st, rest day
- 2nd, move to Camp 3 for the
night at 7400m, same altitude as the very highest camp on Manaslu (not much
sleeping took place if I remember right!)
- 3rd, back to Camp 2,
rest day
- 4th, 5am start, down to Base Camp.
- 5th, rest day at
Base camp, we’re now acclimatised and waiting to recover and for the right
weather!!
After that, I went for a short walk along the glacier and
got some nice shots of nature’s best work in ice sculptures, what a treat!
After lunch, Harry the guide, offered to take a walk in the
icefall. It took us 30minutes to get to the bottom of the icefall, at our
crampon points, then we walked up for 40minutes, amongst the ice rubble. It’s
certainly not boring and makes the going very pleasing, going up and down ice
slopes, fixed or no fixed ropes, plenty of fun.
However, as we were standing there at 2pm, we witness an avalanche from the dreaded seracs
above the upper section of the route. After the snow cloud settled, we could
also see people in that same area. Hopefully nobody got hurt….. time will tell.
So another 2 days to recover and get ready for the “real
thing”.
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